I was an Inca in my past life
Inca Trail
01 CHAPTER
INCA EMPIRE
Prologue:
In a little more than a week, I was able to cross two serious passes (one of which was called the Dead Woman’s Pass), visit the numerous ruins of the Incas, which were mysteriously appearing on the mountain trail, visit a real cloud forest, see one of the seven wonders of the World, go through the Sun Gate hidden in the fog, climb giant man-made stairs almost to the clouds, nail the insane altitude on my way to see the Rainbow Mountain, listen to numerous lectures about the local culture, learn a couple of interesting words in Spanish and a local dialect, and most importantly, become a part of a local tribe called the Chichas Team.
In my Dream:
I once dreamed that I was an Inca, and I had a clear awareness of my belonging to this ancient civilization. In this dream, I was digging a hole in the ground and covering it with stones. Then, I was throwing the pieces of meat in there and coated them with soil. This action seemed very familiar and natural to me as if I had done this activity more than once before.
Later, I was amazed to learn that the Incas prepared a festive dish this way, called Pachamanca (as translated from the Inca language - "hole in the ground").
Remembering my dream, I realized that I want to see the ancient culture of the Incas and visit the lost city among the clouds - Machu Picchu.
And so, I made it here! It happened spontaneously, or rather, things led to this intentionally. At some point, my inner voice insisted: you need to see Machu Picchu. And I obediently agreed.
After walking the four-day trek along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, I feel an inexplicable inner peace.
The place is very powerful and energetically charged. From the very first minutes of me walking on this trail, I felt at home.
Maybe in a past life, I was an Inca?
In Reality:
You can start appreciating the grandeur of the Andes right from the plane while observing the views below you through the window. The tops of the mountains, one by one, begin to emerge. Occasionally, the plane would abruptly tremble, and the palms of my hands would start sweating uncontrollably. I constantly had a feeling that from the turbulent currents on which a plane was maneuvering, it was very close to collapsing right into the very belly of the mountain ranges, separated by internal plateaus and depressions. Mountains were all exposed, right before me.
When our plane landed in Cuzco, the capital of the Inca Empire, I immediately felt a sudden lack of oxygen. Or rather, my breath was taken away when I watched the plane dive through the protruding tops of the mountains, preparing for the landing.
Immediately finding myself at an altitude of more than 3500 meters above sea level, in a city called the ‘Navel of the Earth’ (This is how the word Cusco translates from the language of the Quechua Indians), I tried to regulate my breathing and thought processes.
On my way from the Airport, I digested the fact that the land on which I was traveling by a modern car was once a gigantic empire that encompassed the entire Andes Mountain range of South America. And Cusco was a religious, cultural, and economic center of this empire.
The outline of Cuzco resembles a running puma – a sacred animal for the Incas. There was a belief that the inhabitant of the Andes must reach such a state of mind in which one becomes equal to a puma. The person must master the survival skills and be super adaptive to different environments.
Cusco is the starting point for all routes leading to Machu Picchu, the mysterious city of the Incas, hidden in the Andes at an altitude of 2,450 meters above sea level.
I decided to play it safe, and for a smoother adaptation to altitude, I went to an ancient Inca city called Ollantaytambo. Surrounded by beautiful mountains, Ollantaytambo is also the ceremonial center of the Incas and is located at a lower altitude than Cusco. It takes an additional two hours to drive from Cusco, along very picturesque mountain serpentines.
If you do not plan to go on a four-day trek along the Inca Trail, like me, then you can take a tourist train directly from Ollantaytambo to the nearest town to Machu Picchu, called Aguas Calientes. This train ride takes about an hour and a half. From Aguas Calientes, you can get on a bus that goes along a 7-kilometer mountain serpentine, directly to Machu Picchu.
But I will have time to experience all the delights of the mountain road and the tourist train on the way back, when, after a four-day trek, crossing the mountains, I descend to the lost city of the Incas.
The most unusual thing happened to me the very first night of my stay in Peru.
When I finally arrived at my hotel from the airport, after an endless commute, I was completely exhausted. I immediately plunged into a coma-like deep sleep. Awoken, in the middle of the night, I sat on my bed staring into the darkness when suddenly I noticed two miniature silhouettes in close proximity. Slightly shocked, I soon realized that there were two completely unfamiliar cats cuddled up in my bed, sleeping near my feet. At that moment, it seemed natural to me, and I didn’t experience any negative emotions. But to be honest, the situation was a bit surrealistic. Just try to imagine – nighttime in a foreign city. You sleep in a hotel room when two cats magically appear in your bed out of nowhere. Strangely enough, it did not bother me at all. For some reason, I started talking to them, and they purred back in response. Fully awoken, I realized that everything I saw was real, and two cats were really sleeping in my bed. It was surprising to me how deeply I must’ve slept. Most likely, before going to bed with me, the cats wandered around the room, unabstracted by my presence. Probably, after they discovered me sleeping, they jumped onto the bed and kneaded the blanket for some time, and only then, they decided to join me. The next thought that popped into my head was: where did they come from?
I got up and started looking for a possible loophole in a wall. After all, the cats couldn’t have seeped through the crack under the door? Could they? One of the cats jumped off the bed, following me, and began moving towards the window. This is when I discovered that the bolt, which kept the window closed was unlocked, and there was a wide enough opening in the window for a cat to slip through.
Realizing that it was time to leave the room, the cats jumped out from the window one by one, purring as if saying goodbye.
After the guests left, I thought about what had happened. Everything was so strange! I had an odd feeling that I just returned home from a long absence, and my beloved pets came out to greet me. Or maybe it was the spirits of my ancestors welcoming me to the land of the Incas? I took it as a good sign... And with that thought, I plunged back into yet another coma-like deep sleep, without moving a muscle until the morning.
02 CHAPTER
ON THE TRAIL
Pilgrimage to Machu Picchu along the Inca Trail:
Although I prefer to travel alone, I made an important discovery for myself: when traveling alone, I like to join the company of strangers, more often like-minded people, mountain lovers who, just like me, are obsessed with travel. I love listening to their stories about the places they’ve visited and the different challenges they’ve faced while being on a journey. Especially I love learning how life-changing a specific trip was for them. These kinds of people inspire me. Very often, after hearing the stories, I come up with future travel plans.
This time around, I deliberately went trekking with a bunch of people I didn’t know. I felt like we got magically assembled, thanks to our mutual love for mountains. Even though our life experiences and age differences were very diverse, still, we had something in common: adventurous spirits and general curiosity about our planet.
In addition to the well-mingled team of adventurers, we had another group of people who did everything possible for us to make it on this trek. That crew consisted of our incredible Peruvian guide Rodrigo, the most talented chef Vergilio, thanks to whom we never experienced any hunger in the mountains, and thirteen amazing porters who carried our entire load, including food, water, and tents.
These people are real hard workers, laboring away tirelessly from dawn to dusk. At first, I thought that we were starting a day way too early. I soon realized that our porters had to wake up at least an hour before us. During that extra hour, they managed to warm up water for the entire group, cook, and serve us breakfast. Afterward, our porters would disassemble all tents, pack the equipment, distribute the load among themselves and leave before us, so they can arrive at the next camping site in advance and have enough time on their hands to put-up tents, prepare food, and so on ... On repeat!
I will probably remember those faces for a long time. Tired, but kind. Dear to heart. I could constantly hear them laughing, regardless of how hard they worked during the day. Their eyes expressed an inner dignity. I have repeatedly observed how the porters kindly teased each other. And when we would arrive at the campsite by the end of the day, they gave us a standing ovation so that we could feel like heroes, although in reality, they were the heroes themselves!
The beginning:
On the first day of our hike, I remember seeing a snake-like, winding Urubamba River, far below us. Its channel runs along narrow valleys of a deep canyon, from Cuzco to Machu Picchu. This view became visible at a decent altitude. You could see a tourist train hurrying along its bank, repeating the river’s curvature by its movement.
About two hours after we started trekking, we stopped at our first Inca Site. From there, a stunning view of the mountain terraces of the ancient city called Patallacta opened up, which we admired from afar.
Perhaps the most picturesque camping site was on the first day of our trek. A place called Ayapata wedged somewhere between the slopes of the mountains at an altitude of 3300 meters above sea level. A fabulous view of the mountain ranges opened up. Mountain peaks became gradually covered up with fog. Even though we were high in the mountains, I felt calm and cozy in my tent.
Dead Woman’s Pass:
Have you ever climbed a mountain with an ominous name: Dead Woman's Pass? And the night before the ascent, were you reckless enough to listen to horror stories, shared by a guide, about the ghosts inhabiting that place? The story about a Guide who woke up in the middle of the night outside his tent was seriously frightening. According to the plot, the guide first heard suspicious noises near his tent late at night. Then, unexpectedly he found himself freezing almost to death on the ground, outside. He strongly believed that a ghost dragged him out of his tent while he was sleeping. Losing his mind from fear, the guide began screaming like mad, disturbing others.
Impressed by the story, I woke up in the middle of the night and carefully listened to any suspicious noises outside. I checked to see whether there was a "roof" over my head and a sleeping bag protecting my body, worrying that a restless ghost could also drag me outside. I nervously tied the dangling strings to protect the entrance from unexpected invasions. And then I waited for something strange to reveal itself. But after a while, I was only possessed by a deep sleep.
Dead Woman's Pass is the highest point on the Inca Trail. Its altitude reaches 4200 meters above sea level. It is called this way not because of a suspicion that a ghost of a dead woman wanders there. And not even because, at such altitude, you can see almost anything! It turns out that the Incas believed that the Andes were giants made of stones, and the pass reminded them of a motionless woman. Each time the Incas needed to get to the other side of the mountain, they believed they were climbing on the stomach of a woman. And the outlines of a lying woman are clearly visible when you start climbing up.
The climb was quite steep, almost vertical. The enormous staircase, paved with stone blocks, seemed overwhelming, but still, my legs obediently carried on. The sudden change in altitude made this climb even more difficult. My heart was ready to jump out. I’ve constantly stopped to catch my breath. After some time, almost exhausted, we nevertheless climbed these giant stairs leading almost to the clouds. The most incredible view of the mountain ranges opened up before us. From the top, we spotted a barely noticeable path, on which, quite recently, we climbed with such an effort.
The second pass Runcu Raccay, at an altitude of 4000 meters, was not less challenging. On the way up, we visited the archaeological site with the same name. Runcu Raccay is a small circular dwelling thought to have been a perfect spot for ancient astronomers. It nestled right on the cliff and offered us a head-spinning view of the Dead Woman's Pass. After we left the ruins, there was another steep climb up the similar stone stairs until we finally reached the top and saw some clouds, dragging the snow-capped mountain peaks. We made it through the most challenging part of the trail! At that moment, I felt like a real hero!
You are probably wondering if everyone tolerated the drastic changes in altitude. In general, there were no serious incidents. Some teammates had minor altitude sickness symptoms such as headaches, sleepless nights, and upset stomachs. One person had a very severe nosebleed on the way up to the second pass. But in general, we all endured the altitude changes well and continued with our journey. Thank you, Pachamama (Mother Earth), for letting us in!
Cloud Forest:
On the Inca Trail, surroundings change very quickly. On the way, you manage to visit several climatic zones at once: from grassy plains and snow-capped mountains to dense tropical forests.
When we started descending to the mountain saddle from the Runcu Raccay pass, we unexpectedly entered the jungle, known as the Cloud Forest. The Cloud Forest immediately showed us its abundance of mosses, ferns, lianas, and other outlandish vegetation. Walking through such a forest, you get this feeling that clouds are settling on you, and you blend with them dissolving in nature. The beauty of this place is spectacular!
Inca Sites:
In addition to witnessing the variety of climatic zones and experiencing drastic changes in altitude, we were also visiting some stunning Inca Sites.
1. Sayacmarca (An Inaccessible Village)
Sayacmarca, the literal name ‘inaccessible town’, rises on the top of a hill, almost on the edge of the abyss, and is not so easy to access. There is only one narrow staircase leading up to it. And it has exactly one hundred steps.
After several days of continuous ascents and descents over a staircase made of boulders, this narrow staircase seemed simply overwhelming. My knees were shaking from all the walking up and down the hill.
The view from there is simply magical as it rises above two lakes, among mountain ranges. I was experiencing calmness and tranquility!
Later, we made our way through the mountain jungle to a beautiful lunch spot! It was compensation for all our physical hardship that day. The domesticated llamas were wandering around. From our campsite, we could see another Inca Ruins called Phuyupatamarka.
2. Phuyupatamarka (The City Above the Clouds)
Like many Inca sites, the 'City Above the Clouds' was no exception in the combined balance between nature and the environment. The constructions created by the Incas were very organically carved into the side of the mountain and seemed to be an integral part of nature. This site is formed by platforms that were used for sacred and religious ceremonies. We sat down on one of these platforms, overlooking the ruins of Intipata and Wiñaywayna (next stops on the Inca trail), and began to carefully listen to the guide's story about the sacred sacrifices, which could've taken place right on the spot we were sitting.
Here Incas sacrificed young Children, who have been preparing for this special ceremony their entire lives. The children began their long pilgrimage from Cusco and were eventually brought to a remote mountaintop at extreme altitude for a sacrifice. To alleviate their pain, or perhaps to disorient and calm young victims on the mountainside, they were given mind-altering substances (such as cocaine and alcohol). Children simply fell asleep under the influence of sedatives and low temperatures.
Our guide's story was interrupted by an unexpected downpour. As if all those children whose lives ended in the highlands of the Andes mourned their doomed fate.
But the most interesting thing is that despite the terrible events that took place in the Andes many centuries ago, the energy of this place was amazing, so peaceful. I am hoping that these children were left to slip off to heaven peacefully, without suffering.
3. Intipata – (Terraces Of The Sun)
Our pilgrimage along the Inca Trail was coming to an end. We were on our way down to the sanctuary of Machu Picchu when our guide unexpectedly deviated from the trail and led the way to a hidden gem, the impressive ancient terraces. Most likely, each individual level of the terraces was intended for the cultivation of a specific plant. But the most amazing thing is that all this was grown at an altitude of 2800 meters above sea level.
While walking on one of these terraces, I saw a man peacefully sitting and reading a book. A spectacular canvas stretched before him, woven of mountain ranges and intermountain basins. And somewhere below, I saw the river Urubamba again. It was a similar bird’s eye view I saw on the first day of this trek. And a toy-like train was still repeating the curve of the river, rushing curious tourists to Machu Picchu whereas we walked to it all these days.
4. Wiñay Wayna (Forever Young)
We finally reached our last camping site on the trail. Before our final sprint to the Incan Sanctuary, we decided to visit the ruins that are located in closest proximity to Machu Picchu.
Perhaps, Wiñay Wayna is the most spectacular Inca site on the trail after Machu Picchu. The multi-level settlement carved into the side of the mountain, connected by more than 50 stepped terraces, is simply awe-inspiring in its scale! The time spent there was unique. We dispersed into different groups. Some people were sitting on a terrace, overlooking the mountains and contemplating our journey. Others decided to explore the ancient city. Gathering the last bits of strength, they were trying to handle the numerous steps, leading downhill first and then spiraling back up.
Rodrigo told us amusing stories accumulated in the process of working as a guide. I was very grateful that he sincerely loved his job, the mountains, his country, and all the people he met along the way. During the time spent with our team, he became our integral part!
03 CHAPTER
MACHU PICCHU
Sun Gate:
What struck me the most when I prepared for this trip was that you don’t climb to Machu Picchu. Instead, you go down to it. Pilgrimage along the Inca Trail begins at 2800 meters above sea level, with a sudden shift in altitude. To get to the lost city among the clouds, you first need to cross a pass at an altitude of 4200 meters, immediately followed by a second one - 4000 meters high. And only after crossing these two mountain passes, you begin descent to Machu Picchu, located at an altitude of 2400 meters above sea level.
The day that we were all waiting for had finally arrived. Soon, we’ll see the Sanctuary of the Incas! We had to wake up super early, at 3:30 AM. I didn’t sleep much during the few hours that were allocated to sleep and woke up much earlier than the appointed time. I was afraid to oversleep.
The last checkpoint on the Inca Trail was only five minutes from our campsite. At 4 AM there was already a decent queue, consisting of several groups. Everyone really wanted to be one of the first to start trekking when they open the gates at 5:30 AM.
Strictly at 5:30 AM, the gate opened, and all groups one by one entered the last part of the Inca Trail, the path to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku).
Inti Punku was once the main entrance to the sanctuary of Machu Picchu. This ancient fortress is dedicated to the cult of the Inti, the Sun God. Here, if you are lucky with the weather, you can see the panorama of the whole Machu Picchu for the first time.
It was believed that the steps were a control gate for those who entered the Sanctuary. These steps were the last challenge on our way. We were all exhausted, but the anticipation of a miracle kept us going...
The site itself marks the end of a four-day trek along the Inca Trail. From here, the road only goes down to the Sanctuary of Machu Picchu.
According to the plan, when we arrive at the Sun Gate, we could potentially see a stunning view of the whole Machu Picchu for the first time. But when we got there, the mountains were completely covered with a thick fog. It seemed as if they did not exist at all. One could only guess what was hidden behind that fog. We patiently waited for it to clear off. And so, we waited and waited. An hour passed, and the mist still did not dissipate. We would’ve probably kept on waiting, hoping for a miracle, but Rodrigo, our guide, strongly recommended to resume our descent. Mountains are unpredictable!
We were a little upset but still happy from everything we had experienced over the past four days and began to descend slowly.
And then, as if mother nature itself, flirting with us, decided for a moment to raise the curtain of fog, and Machu Picchu gradually began to appear like in a fairy tale. It felt like an image was slowly developing from a photo negative until a new Wonder of the World appeared in front of us in all its beauty! Our delight knew no bounds! We shouted in unison with joy, amazed at what was happening. I burst into tears. I was touched by the indescribable beauty that was finally released from the captivity of the fog. Even if it was just for a moment, but it was enough to remember this moment for the rest of my life...
Rodrigo rejoiced most of all. He said that he was praying to Pachamama and asked it to dispel the fog over Machu Picchu to show us a new wonder of the world.
The Lost City Of The Incas:
Hello Machu Picchu! It's hard for me to describe the grandeur of this place. You have to have this experience on your own. And what you see will be more appreciated the longer your journey is. There is no point in describing the history of this place. Many reliable sources have managed this task much better than I could ever do. I will say one thing – this site is magical! It has good energy. It is warm and is simply awe-inspiring in its scale! Every little detail was considered, every stone was matched, every construction was mathematically calculated. Everything has its symbolism. The Incas worshiped the Sun God, which means they chose a special place, closer to the sun.
I got lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets and staircases. This winding maze would almost always lead to a terrace hanging over the abyss. It was very hot, and the stone slabs of ancient roofless remains transmitted heat to everyone passing by. The precision and beauty of architecture are simply extraordinary! And the magnificent view of the valley below is striking. I wonder if it was a convenient spot for the priests to observe the sun's movement.
After 2 hours guided tour and some free time for an independent inspection, we made our way down to the small town called Aguas Calientes. In the town, we celebrated the successful completion of our trek by sipping some of pisco sour (a strong national alcoholic drink). Tired and somewhat drunk, we jumped on an almost moving train. In about an hour and a half, It took us straight to Ollantaytambo. I slept most of the ride, only occasionally opening my eyes to absorb the passing mountain landscapes for one last time.
04 CHAPTER
RAINBOW MOUNTAIN
The Cherry on the Cake:
These colorful mountains are called Vinicunca. In the Quechua language, it literally means the "rainbow mountains." To see this miracle of nature, I had to climb to an altitude of 5100 meters above sea level, where I was able to see not only a stunning view of the Rainbow Mountain but also snowy peaks, among which rises the highest glacier in Peru, Ausangata – the sacred mountain of the Incas.
To be honest, I was a little nervous climbing to such a high altitude. I didn’t want the altitude sickness to knock me down at the most inappropriate moment. To prevent any symptoms of altitude sickness, I walked quite slowly and chewed on coca leaves. By the way, I discovered that cocaine is made from Coca leaves, but in Peru, it is used nationwide, and the use of it is legal. When chewed, it is believed to suppress pain, and fatigue and many travelers bring a supply with them when hiking through the Andes to help them adapt to the highlands. Almost all Peruvians chew it. Being super naive, I drank the entire flask of coca tea the night before the start of my trek along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, thinking that it would somehow relax me. It turned out to have the opposite effect on me... I couldn’t sleep at all...
But at the top of Rainbow Mountain, coca leaves came in handy! I felt great! Except for the stuffed-up ears, nothing bothered me, and on the saddle of the mountain, I was able to breathe with ease. In the Andes, I sense good energy. Here you are not rushing to go down in pursuit of oxygen. Instead, you want to quietly sit on the top of a mountain and absorb the beauty you see (until you know it is time to start descending to escape the endless queue of tourists rushing up to see the miracle).
Despite the fact that at this altitude oxygen drops to 80 percent, I never ceased to admire the local beauty. And if for me, a person who is accustomed to living at an altitude of no more than 500 meters (1640 feet) above sea level, climbing to 5100 meters / 17,060 feet was a personal achievement (I am not counting the record of 5,644 meters / 18,519 feet in Nepal). For locals – the native Indians, life on this altitude is perfectly natural. Everyone is busy doing their own business. But most of all, I was amazed by the local women. They managed to carry their babies while leading the way to the horses that were carrying struggling from the lack of oxygen tourists.
Epilogue:
It is so strange that some things that seem to be completely harmless - terrify me, but on the contrary, what others find to be terrifying, is quite organic to me. For example, I am no longer afraid of solo travel to distant countries, and extreme hikes in the company of strangers. But I am terribly afraid of public speaking.
I’m not scared of driving somewhere in New Zealand with the left-hand side traffic in place and embarking on a multi-hour journey along winding mountain roads, but I am still afraid to drive on highways in the United States. I was not afraid to give up everything and move from a big city to the countryside, but I am afraid to end things that no longer suit me.
adventure traveling), until I tried it for the first time and realized that it was not scary at all, on the contrary - very exciting.
I will not hide the fact that when I first went on a solo trip, I was also tormented by doubts and fears. But when you plunge into the atmosphere of an unfamiliar place and begin to explore it at your own pace, without adjusting to anyone, then unexpectedly, you begin to experience real pleasure from this whole process. Not only do you discover a new place, but you also start to discover yourself, and sometimes from a very unexpected side. After such trips, you become stronger and more independent.
Most importantly, on the road, you can meet like-minded people, and the voyage will cease to be a solitary one.
Dream, explore, discover!
