The Land of Fire and Ice
Iceland
01 CHAPTER
A SMALL VOLCANIC ISLAND
I ran away from the heat wave in exchange for "winter" coolness, closer to the Arctic Circle. I escaped and got lost somewhere between the ridges of the rhyolite mountains in the Landmannalaugar region, painted with a kaleidoscope of different colors. A trip to Iceland allowed me to look at the enchanting landscapes that look as if they descended from the pages of Scandinavian fairy tales and escape for a while from everyday troubles. Here, involuntarily, along with the locals, I began believing in elves and trolls and started speaking the same language as nature.
What could be more beautiful than what nature creates? Only those precious moments when you have the opportunity to witness this beauty. Seeing the world is my favorite practice nowadays. During these unique experiences, I start seeing myself as a part of something truly real.
For a long time, I could not get used to the fact that it almost never gets dark in Iceland during the summer months. The period of white nights lasts from May to August, although the sun still briefly sets below the horizon around midnight. This is due to Iceland's proximity to the Arctic Circle. The good thing is that there is no need to hurry anywhere before it gets dark. But for me, a light sleeper, it was definitely a challenge!
July and August are the warmest months in Iceland with the highest temperature rising to 10-15 degrees Celsius, so the hiking conditions were perfect, especially for someone like me since I tolerate cold better than heat.
02 CHAPTER
LAUGAVEGUR
Laugavegur is a multi-day hike and is the most surreal hiking experience I’ve ever encountered! Its signature rhyolite mountains (which give them their distinct “rainbow striped” appearance), and the stark black lava fields, frozen in time, make you feel like you are taking a stroll on the moon. This little volcanic island with its unparalleled rugged landscapes is the true definition of otherworldly.
Iceland is known for its very temperamental and unpredictable weather. Especially in the highlands, even during peak summer months, you might encounter a whiteout or storm. So, I prepared to travel with an open mind and remembered that nature offers no promises!
But we were lucky enough! Except for a few short-lived downpours and a hailstorm, we were greeted with clear skies and plenty of sunshine. There was also no shortage of daylight, and our group had the advantage of hiking under the “midnight sun”.
As challenging as the trail could be at times, every day it offered up some form of “trail magic” – the mind-blowing views that stood out. The scenery along the trail is highly varied. In the same stretch of trail, you will get a chance to traverse past volcanoes and glaciers, climb harsh and inhospitable highlands, descend to a nearby canyon, cross rivers, and see elusive vegetation. Only then it becomes clear why Iceland is referred to as “the land of fire and ice”.
As we were getting closer to the end of the trail, it was surprising to see the terrain that showed off a forest. It reminded me that we were still on earth, and not on an unidentifiable planet lost somewhere amidst unknown galaxies. After endless lava fields and rock formations, an earthy tree seemed like a wonder!
Not a single person is visible from this elevation, and I almost merged with Icelandic landscapes like a chameleon. Here you can feel the pulse of our planet in the form of streaming steam of restless geysers and thermal springs. And active volcanoes and uncooled lava flows are our planet’s breath. In such scenery, you immediately begin to feel so small in comparison to the vastness of our universe.
In this really true awe of a moment, I knew I was fully present, fully alert, and fully appreciative of what I saw and there was a real connection between me and the experience.
03 CHAPTER
FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS
I also connected the Laugavegur hike with the famous Fimmvörðuháls trail, Iceland’s best day hike. Since both hikes start or end in the Thorsmark Valley, it was perfect to combine the two to add an extra day to my Icelandic adventure. The Fimmvörðuháls trail is not an easy hike. It includes over 1000 meters of climbing and the trail passes between two glaciers and an active volcano. Yet, you are enjoying beautiful views of numerous waterfalls, and snowfields and walking on freshly erupted, volcanic soil. This place has the youngest landscapes on the planet.
When I was hiking up the Fimmvörðuháls Pass on strenuous volcanic soil, the weather changed a few times. First, we were trapped by a huge black cloud that flew over us from behind the mountain ranges. Starting with a drizzle, it ended up with a heavy downpour, preventing our group from pulling our raincoats on. It seemed insufficient to this cloudy beast, and it decided to attack us with a hailstorm the size of an overripe pea. We yelled, rapidly putting on our raincoats and pulling our hoods tighter. Soon, it calmed down and dissolved over our heads in a matter of seconds. Next, the sun started shining again, as if nothing had ever happened.
My heart skipped a beat a few times on this trail. The first time it froze when we had to climb a short section where the trail clings to the cliff. On my right, there was a chain to assist with the climbing, and to my left, there was a drop-off into the valley.
Soon enough, we faced another challenge when we had to walk, almost crawl, over a very narrow mountain range called the Cat’s Spine Ridge. No matter what side I looked at, there was a drop-off into the valley. The views were dizzying! But without such unexpected happenings, there wouldn’t have been those most unforgettable memories that make hiking so remarkable!
04 CHAPTER
ERUPTING VOLCANO
When I went trekking in Iceland, I couldn’t even imagine that I would be lucky enough to witness an eruption of an unexpectedly awakened volcano.
The weather those days changed every five minutes. You could be enjoying the sunny weather one moment, and then the clouds would thicken in a matter of seconds and surprise you with a downpour, which will soon transform into a hailstorm, leaving you completely in awe. I even joked: “We had some rain and a hailstorm. What is next? Is the volcano going to erupt?” And the next day it started erupting.
The volcano began erupting on Wednesday, August 3, from a crack in the Fagradalsfjall volcanic system, in the center of the mountain of the same name. Naturally, this event provoked great interest not only among locals but also among curious tourists.
The eruption looks spectacular at night! It takes several hours to climb the volcano through endless lava fields and magma rocks. It was raining throughout the hike, creating slippery and muddy slopes, and due to the thick fog, the trail was barely visible. But this hike was worth it!
At some point, the sky lit up, and the most magnificent spectacle I have ever witnessed appeared right in front of me! The volcano spewed lava, spreading it into fiery rivers throughout the valley, and breathed its heat right into my face. Oh my god, how beautiful and scary it was at the same time!
This natural phenomenon makes you think how small and insignificant you really are in the face of nature…
05 CHAPTER
BLUE LAGOON
A slightly exhausted body had survived so many hardships during the trek and required special care after a week's stay in the mountains. A trip to Iceland wouldn't be complete if I didn't venture out to the most famous Blue Lagoon Iceland Resort & Geothermal Spa.
Iceland is famous for its geothermal springs. There are about 62 of them on the island. Those springs are not there for just pure decoration, but they actually heat the country. Hot water goes to the central heating pipes directly from the hot springs, forming an incredibly environmentally friendly system.
The Blue Lagoon is one of the most popular attractions in Iceland. Its milky blue waters are framed by a black lava field and dark green moss. As you might mistakenly think, this lagoon is not a natural formation but the result of human activity. It turns out that it originated from excess water formed from the operation of a nearby geothermal power plant that extracted hot water from underground. But this fact does not make this wonder less attractive. The water in the lagoon has unique healing properties. Its minerals, sea salt, sulfur, blue-green algae, and a specific type of bacteria that is not present anywhere else can cure skin diseases. People swim here even during the winter because the water maintains a comfortable temperature from +37°C to +40°C throughout the year.
The Blue Lagoon is located on the Reykjanes peninsula, 15 minutes from Keflavik International Airport and about 40 minutes from the capital, Reykjavik. The best time to visit this unique Spa is at the end of your adventures in Iceland, better yet, on your way to the airport.
To close the Icelandic chapter, I want to turn to you, my reader…
Go to Iceland! First, head out to the mountains and enjoy the incredible scenery of active volcanoes, hot geysers, glaciers, majestic fjords, and blue lagoons. Then make sure to culminate your journey with a trip to a wellness spa in one of the geothermal springs. I encourage you to do this because a long absence from nature will unavoidably harden your heart and dampen your soul.
