The Island of a Large White Cloud
New Zealand
02 CHAPTER
NORTH
ISLAND
When we departed the South Island and ended up on the North Island, we immediately felt the difference. Still greeted by plush hills, and mushroomed sheep, with their white fur sticking out here and there, we no longer felt the original state of wilderness that reigned the South Island. The dizzying spirals of serpentine roads in the mountains were replaced by civilized high-speed highways that stretched along the ocean coastline. Almost all big cities are concentrated in the North. Hence most population lives there. As much as we tried to have the same experience of stargazing, when basically, the sky drastically overhangs over your head with an invitation to see the Milky Way with all its glory, during our Routeburn Track, on the South Island – we didn’t see the same spectacle in the north. Nonetheless, we had a different experience of making our way through a dense fog early in the morning, while driving to Whakatane (but this is another story). My heart went to heels when I was trying to figure out where the road ended, and a “no-fly-zone” began.
The plush hills of the North Island
Forgotten World Highway
A key highlight on our drive through the Forgotten World Highway was Whangamomona - a tiny town, 45 minutes east of Stratford, which declared its independence from New Zealand and became its own republic. Since then, they have had five presidents, only two of which were humans. You can get a Republic stamp in your passport, as an ultimate souvenir! While wandering around the town, I noticed a philosophical statement, picturesquely painted on the facade of an old house, right in the center of this microcosmic republic.
Some food for thought…
“Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate; our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness that most frightens us. You are playing small does not serve the world. There is nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people will not feel insecure around you. We are all meant to shine as children do. It is not just in some of us, it is in everyone, and as we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give others permission to do the same. As we are liberated from our fears, our presence automatically liberates others.”
Sacred Mount Tongariro
Mount Tongariro is located in the Tongariro National Park, on the Northern island and is an active volcano. The mountain is a part of three volcanoes, which are very much alive: Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngauruhoe. This is how the name "Island of three volcanoes" came about. The so-called Tongariro Alpine Crossing, under favorable weather conditions, can be done in one day. The trek goes through the volcanic paths and craters, formed by old lava flows. The trek itself was challenging in terms of ascent and weather conditions.
In Maori language, Tongariro means "Gone with the South Winds." This name proofed to be very accurate in its meaning. During our ascent to the South Crater, gusting wind was blowing, freezing us to the bones. Visibility was getting worse, and to our greatest regret, the views of Ngaruhuyo and Ruapehu were clouded.
At the top of the red crater, it became unbearably cold because of the wind. During the summit to Mount Tongariro, I was literally almost blown off the mountain. During that moment, I was merely terrified, not to say the least. Our team was spread apart in small groups. One person was in front, a few people - somewhere far behind, and I walked right in the middle. When I was summiting Tongariro, I realized that I cannot cope with the wind and it started to drag me off the cliff. As I was walking alone, I realized that I was not going to turn back, and I also cannot climb the mountain - I just could not move. I was overwhelmed by despair, which then substituted by a panic attack, leaving me utterly breathless. Suddenly I saw strangers passing by and decided to simply cling to one of them to somehow protect myself from the wind and keep walking.
When I reached the top of the red crater, the wind ceased to be so fierce, and lightly continued to push me down the mountain ridge. I exhaled with relief. On the plateau, between volcanoes, the Emerald Lakes emerged. People slid down to them, (some right on their butts), to hide from the icy wind. The tops of “smoky mountains” appeared and I felt the smell of hydrogen sulfide.
The views of the empty volcanic desert, covered with strange formations of frozen lava, blew my mind away.
In the "Martian" valley, which stretches far away from the Red Crater, the Lake Taupo seemed huge. Many thousands of years ago, when the Taupo volcano erupted, a crater was formed, gradually filling up by a lake.
Next, was only a descent, which was quite picturesque. I wanted to always stop and contemplate the local beauty! Smoky crater caps, emerald and blue lakes, Martian-like landscapes, winding slopes, and constantly changing views, made me forget everything else, and I just enjoyed the moment.
